How do you react when one of your favourite men leaves and moves in with the sexier, sassier younger sister? Exactly, says Kate Rouse.
That was how I felt when I heard the news that Cheal’s of Henley was to become Cheal’s of Knowle. Living only a staggering distance to Cheal’s was fabulous. Now it’s a return Uber ride away. But I’ve got over it. All is forgiven…
Cheal’s of Knowle has found its spiritual home.
In December last year, it was announced that Matt Cheal and his team would be closing the Grade II listed building in Henley-in- Arden and moving to a much larger, funkier and altogether brasher location: the restaurant formerly known as Jacques of Knowle.
Henley groaned. Knowle cheered. Our loss, their gain. You get the picture. As a Henley resident, I was not happy.
Then I visited the new ‘funky’ place. The sexier sister. Hmmm?
My heart, momentarily bruised, recovered far too quickly, and demonstrated how fickle we all are. The brashness is in fact quirky. The funky is exactly that. And the food? Keep reading: we will soon get to that.
First, let’s discuss the funk. It is in fact a labour of love of the building’s owner and restaurant partner John Kelly, a man who admires the work of Timothy Oulton, he of the famed bold and quirky design style that makes statements. Anyone who can put a large model plane on the ceiling of a restaurant and say: “Why not?” deserves praise.
The restaurant works, because it doesn’t sit there like a blank canvas waiting for the food to thrill. From the humungous Union Jack hanging outside and the army redcoat in reception that looks like it was last worn by Stanley Baker in Zulu, the design style carries you on a thrill-a-minute exploration of craziness, albeit with a common thread. It makes you feel special. You are in a place to celebrate: you don’t feel the need to ‘sshhh.’ This is somewhere to pop the champagne corks at lunch with a loud bang, and keep drinking cocktails until the evening service begins (it has happened, we are reliably informed).
You want to dress up, but also know that good chinos or a smart summer dress will be welcome. It’s not stuffy.
The hushed tones of Henley have gone. The younger sister is alive and raring to go.
Confidence
We do however have to start by looking at why a successful chef would, after two years of crippling lockdown, risk relocating a very full restaurant to increase in size by one-third, recruit staff in an industry on its knees with staff shortages, run an extra bar that almost triples the covers in total, and yet remain as calm and focused as ever.
Madness is my answer, and there is some truth in that. Confidence is the other. Cheal’s of Henley was turning clients away on every main service. Heartbreaking for anyone, but when you are trying to push your creativity to the edge, margin is what gives you the possibility to grow, to experiment, to recruit at a higher level, to strive harder, to train, to develop your menu.
All this takes money, and whilst a small cosy place is perfect for the residents of Henley, it doesn’t do justice to the skill and talent of a chef, and a team, destined for greater things. So Knowle it was, and a move that might have defied logic is paying off hugely.
With more space comes a kitchen double the size. With that comes a massive team, front and back of house. Matt has an in-box of CVs from experienced people looking for work. In this industry, that should tell you everything you need to know about this chef. Passionate, a workaholic, creative, genuine and most of all driven. Really good chefs seem to have an extra strand of DNA: it’s the one that says 16/18-hour days are normal, and that the back-breaking, seriously hot, dangerous and often soul-destroying work is worth it.
Desire
His self-confessed weakness (or rather lack of interest in) is the paperwork: bookkeeping, day-to-day admin, and all the time- distracting stuff that takes him away from his total desire to create unexpected and inspirational dishes. He has always just wanted to be kitchen-based.
Now he is. The move to the new premises was on a new partnership basis. Regulars at Jacques will remember Richard Chiswell. He is still the GM in the new setup. Liam Roe, who was the manager at Henley, is the restaurant manager at Knowle, gliding around with his normal suave professionalism. And Matt’s head chef from Henley also made the move. Matt Nichols (another Matt, very confusing) won the British Culinary Federation Young Chef of the Year in 2018 and has just come third in the recent British Culinary Federation Chef of the Year 2023, amongst the huge competition. They have been joined by mixologist Jason Taylor, who is adding an ever-changing array of incredible cocktails.
As a result, the new in-place in town is Warren’s Bar, Jason’s domain, a speakeasy-style bar with snacks, small plates, fresh oysters, caviar and a laid-back but very cool vibe: perfect for pre-dinner drinks, but equally so for a fun night out in its own right.
The final change? A conscious decision to only open four days a week, with lunch and dinner service from Wednesday through to Saturday. Serving Sunday lunch was on the cards, but the decision to give everybody a family day off is all part of the ethos of having successful and happy staff.
Flavour
Now, let’s talk food. What’s changed? The increase in space seems to have literally given Matt and his team wings. Henley was very good, but now I can see it was stifled: a very small kitchen meant limitations for a chef who is truly blessed with an obsession to provide joyful, elegant and intense food.
Now he can expand. New equipment gives rise to better techniques.
Matt here is in charge of the rule book, and with a young, excited team, you can feel the energy coming from the kitchen. The plates burst with colour and flavour. I know it’s summer, and this season is hands-down a favourite of chefs and clients alike, but the dishes seem lighter, more intricate.
Space has allowed for more creative plating, they have their own micro-herb fridge, and flavours buzz across your tongue, with the food taking you on a meticulously planned journey.
Local suppliers abound, and as an example, a signature dish of crispy duck egg yolk has every one of its ingredients coming from within a 5-mile radius. A local farm (a trade secret!) grows all the leaves organically, giving punch and power to the taste and enhancing the dish.
With more covers, Matt can plan more dishes, and give more business to local suppliers to step up and grow what he wants. A good chef focuses on his relationships with his suppliers, and here – with a much more sophisticated and goal-orientated business – the proof is literally on the plate.
And the future? Listening to clients, Matt wants to devise more healthy dishes, interspersed with the treats you expect from fine dining. Foodie evenings will follow, a chef’s table is under discussion, and always the focus is on the next menu and the ever-changing seasons. Here is a chef with an eye on the future, but with his actions very much in the present day, driven by passion, a search for excellence, and a mind-blowing attention to detail.
One last point. I need the recipe for his caramelised onion ‘hob nob.’ Then I might forgive him for moving.
Sample Menu
Cheal’s runs a variety of options for both lunch and dinner.
Lunch is 2 courses for £36, or 3 courses for £50. Dinner (3 courses) is £60.
A full a la carte menu is available, as is a seasonal vegetarian menu, with no pre-order necessary. Vegan menus however do need to be pre-ordered, and advice on any serious allergies is appreciated in advance for obvious reasons.
We enjoyed the six-course tasting menu priced at £100 per person, with an optional wine pairing for £75 or £150 per person.
The menu changes frequently, but we ate (in mid-July):
- Homemade Breads & Amuse-Bouche
- Chicken & Duck Liver Parfait Preserved Sea Buckthorn, with pickled red onion watercress and caramelised onion ‘hob nob’
- Crispy Chadwick Farm Duck Yolk Smoked Salmon with Jersey Royals, peas, broad beans, mangetout and dill
- Line-caught Cornish Sea Bass Lobster Onion Bhaji with organic carrots, pineapple coriander and curry
- Cornish Lamb Leg Cannon & Braised Shoulder with charred lettuce, pearl barley, celeriac and mint gel
- Strawberry Shortcake Soufflé Clotted Cream Ice Cream
- Selection of British & European Cheeses with quince, grapes and biscuits
- Petit Fours